I had to start my exit of Europe eventually and I found myself in Istanbul for a week. This metropolis endured the collapse of the Roman Empire, endured for another millennium as the Byzantine Empire, became a shining part of the Ottoman Empire in more modern history, and now stands as a thriving metropolis with 15 million residents in this current day.

Their culture is so unique since Istanbul has been the bridge between east and west, creating a secular state that’s predominantly Muslim. Tourists flock to this city to experience its vast history. Most of the large historical sites in the city are very easily navigated so it seems unnecessary for me to address sightseeing in this guide.

What was not easy to navigate were the food stalls. Most busy districts of Istanbul seemed to have a dozen different restaurants on every corner. If you walked several blocks, you’ll find yourself passing 50 or 60 restaurants. I quickly discovered that their quality can vary greatly. It’s an overwhelming amount of options to choose from and frankly I’m not sure how so many restaurants exist.

So how do you navigate through all these eateries to enjoy the best Istanbul has to offer? Fortunately, I have done that for you. My friends and I have combed the streets, filling ourselves with all sorts of grease and cheese and mediocre fare in search of the best dishes. These gastronomical gems have been found at the cost of an increased blood pressure. I put my health at risk with all these fatty foods, for you, my lovely readers.

 

Kadikoy

We’re going to start this journey in Kadikoy. This hip and liberal district on the Asian side of Istanbul is the mecca for the many restaurants I’m going to recommend. Since it’s off the tourist track (but very easily reached via ferry), this is where many of the middle-upper class locals go to eat and enjoy some quality fare. This will result in prices that are slightly above average, but are very worth it.

 

Kuff

This very hip and modern café seems to have taken the lion’s share of business over the weekdays. So much so that they have two stores in Kadikoy alone. They have quality coffee and tea that pairs well with their fresh breakfast options. For its price, it’d be a crime not to stop here at least once. Plus, the healthy breakfast options will balance out the inevitable fatty dinners.

Expected Price: $4.23 – $6.88(15 – 25 lira)

This was the more expensive and overly large breakfast option at 25 lira

 

Ayla Tantuni

Out of the many Doner Kebap stores, this place certainly stood out. It’s a cheap eat located in the heart of Kadikoy. The meats are cooked on the giant hotplate, the pita simmered in all the juices and all made to order. It’s a quick grab and eat store.

Expected Price: $2.75 – $4.23 (10 – 15 lira)

 

Ciya Kebap and Sofrasi

Two adjacent stores in the Kadikoy area from the same owner. Ciya Kebap makes… Kebap. And it’s delicious. Ciya Sofrasi is a self-service restaurant with just countless different types of traditional Turkish food. Their appetizer section is by weight, so you can walk in, pick what you’d like and have the dish weighed. The main courses are a fixed price and you just tell which dishes you’d like. Or if you’re me, you just point at a random entre.

Expected Price: $8.25 – $12.38 (30 – 45 lira)

I’m not even sure what kind of stew I ate, but I couldn’t stop eating

Asi Kunefeleri

Asi Kunefeleri serves the all-famous dish that you’ll see everywhere.  Kunefe is cheese cooked in a salted or femented butter, soaked in sugary syrup, and topped with pistachios. It’s about as unhealthy as it sounds but equally delicious.

There are countless kunefe stores, but the great ones will cook it fresh and shown like below. The best stores will give you the option to have a side of plain ice cream on the side to match the sugary dish (and a good store won’t overload the kunefe with sugar to hide the subpar ingredients). I also recommend splitting a plate since it’s so rich and will only provide a shortcut to your early grave.

Expected Price: $2.20 – $3.58 (8 – 13 lira)

This is how real Kunefe is born

 

Kebapci Iskander

This small Kadikoy store sells one dish and frankly, that’s all they need. This family has been making this unique type of Kebap for four generations and it seems to be working out for them. The Iskander Kebap starts a standard but well-cooked, grilled lamb meat that’s been basted in tomato sauce.

Already sounds good right?

Upon serving the dish, a separate waiter will bring out a pot and ladle on melted sheep butter. Another waiter will ladle on a tomato sauce mixed with the lamb drippings. If you can feel your arteries clogging, it’s probably because they are. I’m surprised they don’t make you sign a waiver acknowledging that you’re losing a year of your life.

Expected Price: $9.63 – $12.38 (35 – 45 lira)

There’s two slices of tomatoes with the dish. So it must be healthy.

 

Semolina

While not Turkish in origin, this Italian restaurant deserves a shout out. All the Italian influence over the years means that pasta and other Italian styled dishes have made it into the Turkish diet. This cozy little restaurant serves handmade pasta that rivals that of Italy.

Expected Price: $6.88 – $9.63 (25 – 35 lira)

Forgot to take a picture

 

Pide Sun

Another Italian influenced dish and is essentially the Turkish take on a pizza. Unlike other restaurants, this store makes the Pide on order, instead of letting them sit around on a hot rack. This football shaped creation is a must for any pizza fans or obsessive football fans who insist everything they eat must be football shaped.

Expected Price: $5.50 – $8.23 (20 – 30 lira)

 

 

Gazze

Another doner kebap place, but this one is recommended because of its amazing value and their extra side dishes. It’s got a cheap price, fantastic hummus, and the sheer size of the kebap rivals American portions. It’s located on the eastern side of Kadikoy, so it’s not the most accessible restaurant.

Expected Price: $2.20 – $3.58 (8-13 lira)

Chipotle sized

 

Other Areas

Some of these restaurants can be more scattered but are worth the visit if you’re willing to make the trek. You’ll notice there are few recommendations in the Sultanment district. Sultanamet houses the majority of the historic sites and has become a tourist trap for the dining experience. Even if you find a great restaurant, it’ll likely be overpriced.

 

Adanali Kebapci

This restaurant is in Beskitas, by the university area and is further off the beaten tourist track. It’s sure worth it as this store sells great doner kebaps, freshly made and frothed eram (tart yogurt drink) and all for a very reasonable price. You even get a free appetizer platen but since you came all the way, you must be hungry. Splurge a little and get their meat plates over the kebaps, as the meats are ridiculously well seasoned and they do not skimp on the quantity.

Expected Price: $2.75 – $8.25 (10 – 30 lira) (lower end pricing is for kebap)

This was only the two person portion. They sold portions up to a group of 12

 

Hafiz Mustafa

This is actually a chain of stores and are primarily located in the Sultanamet region. It’s a dessert store that’s a bit pricey. The mantra, “you get what you pay for” applies everywhere, and it definitely applies in Istanbul. Their chocolate pudding and Turkish delight are second to none.

Don’t be swayed by the neighboring stores selling the Turkish delight for 30-40 lira a kilogram. The good stuff like at Hafiz Mustafa goes for 50-60 lira a kilogram and for good reason. These sweets are so decadent that most of us won’t walk away paying more than $4 (15 lira) for a small sample bag.

I really need to remember to take a picture before I start eating

 

Karakoy Gulluoglu

You’ll also see the famous baklava being hocked at countless stores (if you want to make a Turkish person mad, insist that baklava originated in Greece). These pistachio stuffed pastries were certainly good at other stores, but none can beat Karakoy Gulluoglu. They don’t skimp on the pistachio, and they don’t overdo the sugar syrup.

When you enter, it’s a large self-service styled café. Go to the cashier, pick which kind of Baklava you want (they have sooooo many choices), pay and take your receipt to the servers behind the counter. Don’t forget to order a nice chai tea to balance out the sweets. Grab a table and start drooling.

Expected Price: $4.13 – $5.50 (15 – 20 lira)

I may have gotten a second portion afterwards

 

Cats of Istanbul

Istanbul is absolutely in love with their stray cats. The townsfolk will place water and food outside their doors, cats freely roam inside houses and stalls and citizens often raise funds for medical care for these stray cats. This means countless adorable cats roam the streets, far from feral and giving life to the city. And most importantly, you can pet almost all of them.

 

Until next time.