An Itinerary for Bavaria With Some “Fun” History

The largest, safest, traditional and most affluent of all the German states. Bavaria is truly a unique area that seems to do everything in extremes. It has the highest GDP at $668 billion a year, some Bavarian cities are the safest in all of Germany and Bavarians are extremely traditional. Food and drink are sacred and consumed in large quantities, with Bavarians drinking an average of 170 litres (~340 pints) of beer annually per person.

Germany's booming economy means prices are comparable to back at home in the United States. While this isn't awful, it's certainly not great for the long term backpacker or anyone on a tighter budget. So I thought it'd be more useful to present an itinerary so you can optimize your days in Bavaria since prices will quickly add up.

This sample itinerary for Bavaria starts in Nuremberg, an easy to reach location by way of Frankfurt, Berlin or Prague. Or if you're coming from Venice, Vienna or the Balkans, the itinerary can be done in reverse. The smaller towns in Germany are notably cheaper, so the itinerary will take all this account to mix and match an affordable trip.

 

1. Nuremberg (2 nights, 1 if you're ambitious)

The unofficial seat of the Holy Roman Empire and because of it, was subsequently chosen by the Nazi’s as a site of their massive rallies. Hitler even proclaimed Nuremberg as “the most German of all cities.” If that's not a ringing endorsement, I don't know what is. The United States must have taken this as a challenge and subsequently chose to hold the Nuremberg Trials here as a symbolic rebuke. So unfortunately, Nuremberg was put on the map for these two reasons.

It’s not all gloom and fascism. Nuremberg is also known for gingerbread, toys and a ridiculously large Christmas market. Funnily, historians aren’t even sure where the Christmas market originated but it’s so large that it draws in millions of visitors every year.

All of this is what makes Nuremberg such an interesting city to visit. You have the old castle, city walls, Bavarian styled houses and cathedral from the bygone era of the Holy Roman Empire. The more modern history left by the Nazis make for some oddly impressive sites. From the current day, Nuremberg is an economic hub with a lively atmosphere that all come together to make an extremely German town.

Must see sites: Nuremberg Old town, Nuremberg Rally Grounds, St. Sebaldus Church, Imperial Castle of Nuremberg

Optional: Courtroom 600, Christmas Store

Nuremberg can be viewed in one day or two if you're feeling casual. Courtroom 600 may be a historic site but is merely just a courtroom and a generic museum. While I enjoyed my visit, I can truly only recommend the visit to history buffs. The reason I'm recommending two nights is due to the sheer number of festivals that are hosted in Nuremberg. If you can line up your visit with one of these festivals, it'll be a fun visit that'll easily eat up the better part of a day.

 

2. Any small Bavarian town (1 optional night)

I know this sounds vague but I really mean that you can visit any Bavarian town since they're all that lovely. Driving through the countryside will yield some quaint towns a wonderful countryside. The whole of Bavaria is managed so well, almost any small city will be a picturesque small town and depending on the area, there might be quite a few attractions to do.

I was lucky enough to have a friend living in Vilseck (thanks Brandon!) who hosted and took me to visit the nearby town of Potterstein. There was a fun cave, outdoor trout pond and lake, hiking, roller coasters and of course, castles and cathderals. Its quick stop to one of these to change up the pace and better understand country life. Day trips can be made from Nuremberg or Munich if you don't wish to stay in one of these towns. Some highly recommended cities are Inglostat and Regensburg and are more on the route to Munich.

3. Munich (2 jam packed nights or 3 for more leisurely days)

After a slow day in the country, stop by the capital city of Bavaria and third largest city in Germany. Munich is a technological and a business hub, the first stop for anyone celebrating Oktoberfest and  manages to retain its vibrant history and culture. Prague may have a varied and beautiful skyline, but Munich has wide sweeping streets that easily accommodate grand buildings which dominate entire blocks. It adds a sense of order and grandeur with such an open and neoclassical feel that many other European cities don’t match due to their cramped layouts.

Economically, the city is home to Siemens, BMW and more. There are research institutes and research universities in the area. The city is a progressive and bustling but still has a relaxed culture where beer gardens and cafes are prevalent. The city’s quality of life is so sought after that the city’s population has increased by 10% in the last ten years. It’s such a prosperous city that it’s no surprise to find that Munich is one of the most expensive cities in Germany.

And if it sounds like I’m just hyping up Munich, it’s because I loved it. I found the city so aesthetically beautiful, the culture progressive but retains its tradition and still has a laidback vibe. My one biggest comments is to travel to Munich with a friend or a few friends. To fully experience Munich, it’s to relax in the evenings with friends over a beer. I'm lacking in friends so I missed out a little bit.

Konigsplatz
New Town Hall Munich
Odeonsplatz
Nyphemburg Palace in Munich
Outside of Hofbrauhaus in Munich
Surfing at Eisbachwelle in Munich

Must see: Old Town Hall, Old Town, A Beer Garden, Nymphemburg Palace, English Garden, Victuals Market, Konigsplatz, Descuhutes Museum

Optional: Hofbrauhaus, Dachau, Neuschwanstein Castle, Eibachwelle

There are clearly too many things to do in Munich. The items on the must see list are there for their history, grandeur and easily accessible location. Places like Neuschwanstein Castle and Dachau are well worth the time if you can spare it. The prioritization for this itinerary is to focus on Munich before other areas. If you have the time I certainly recommend visiting these other areas.

 

4. Bavarian Alps / Berchtesgaden (2 nights, 3 if you're outdoorsy)

On the way out, stop by the Bavarian Alps to see some stunning mountains that’s straight out of the Sound of Music. This area comprises less than 10% of Germany's territory but makes up for it by contributing to 150% of German stereotypes. Lederhosen, bratwurst, Nazi strongholds, they’re all (or were) here.

There are a few towns to use as a basecamp to explore the Bavarian Alps like Mittenwald, Garmisch-Partenkirchen or even Salzberg. I went with Berchtesgaden since it’s close to the national park, has some interesting WWII history and an easy jumping off point to head east or south whereas Garmisch-Partenkirchen will add some considerable hours to your journey. Berchtesgaden is also close to a lovely lake by the name of Konigsee (King’s Lake) with a lovely little Church, St. Bartholomew right on the water and some nearby waterfalls. All of this is very hikable.

For Lake Konigsee, there small electric boats that you can buy a ticket on to cross the lake if you don’t want to walk around (highly recommended) and restaurants that serve food, beer and milk. Apparently drinking some milk or a couple liters of beer halfway on your hike is very normal here.

The area is so beautiful that Hitler has a home in the neighboring city of Obersalzberg. It must have been so beautiful because Hitler reportedly spent roughly a third of his time in his mansion, Berghof, during the war. You can still visit the ruins of Berghof today and perhaps pee a little bit on the foundation as a fun jab.

Hitler Berghof Berchtesgaden

It’s hard to imagine anyone leading a country while being at a vacation house for a third of the time.

 

The Nazi’s probably figured that Hitler liked the Alps so much, why not build him a vacation home at the top of the Bavarian Alps? So in the summer of 1937, funded by the Nazi party, they started construction of Kehlsteinhaus or the Eagle’s Nest, a birthday gift for Hitler. They completed the building a year later, complete with a tunnel entryway, a brass elevator leading up to the house with electric appliances and heated floors.

You know when you buy your girlfriend a rose and forget she’s allergic? Well someone forgot to tell the Nazi party that Hitler was not the biggest fan of heights or cramped interiors. He found the elevator to be claustrophobic and ended up visiting the house only 14 times.

Well now there’s a restaurant on top of the Eagle’s Nest that you can visit as you please. There’s a bus that leaves from Obersalzberg at fairly regular intervals sell for 14.60 euro and marginally less for a one way ticket. Alternatively, you can hike a four hour uphill trail from Obersalzberg for free. If you purchase a one way bus ticket up, you can walk back down from the mountain and avoid the strenuous hike up.

Must See: Konigsee and Obersee, Eagle's Nest, Berghof

Optional: Salt Mines in Berchtesgaden or Bad Reichenhall, day trip to Salzburg, Dokumentation Obersalzburg, Rothbach Waterfall

The biggest highlights here are the Berchtesgaden National Park with Kongisee and Obersee. If you have time then other hikes into the national park would be a great use of time. The Eagle's Nest and Berghof are definitely worth it for the history and the panoramic views.

The salt mines are more optional since they're more geared towards family and may not be for everyone. The Obersalzburg museum isn't the greatest museum and mostly in German. Rothbach waterfall is at the end of the hike to Obersee and is certainly beautiful but may not be worth the time if you're on a tight schedule. And as far as Salzburg goes, its a beautiful city worth visiting but if you're going into Austria, you're better off staying there for the night since there's much to see.

This is just a rough itinerary for Bavaria with some flexible days and important sights to see. Hope this helps your planning for a trip through Bavaria.

 

Stray Observations

  • Europeans generally have the most extreme gear for a simple day hike. Germans take it to the next level.

This is at the hostel. They're not even camping.

 

  • Peeing in public is sorta legal in Germany
  • Sunday is a day of rest. No mowing the lawn or washing the car in the rural towns
  • Their pretzels are that good
  • Germany loves being a cash based society. Despite their easy ability to use cards, they have a long history of using cash and stick with it. Funnily there's no cash register, there's usually a head waiter/waitress who has a massive wallet full of money. At least Germans always have the change needed for the large cash transactions, unlike Poland or Czech Republic.
  • Beer here is sometimes sold in a whole liter. Sometimes its only sold in a liter.

Liter of Beer at a Beer Garden in Munich

The bartender laughed at me when I tried to get a normal pint

 

Until next time.