Avid sightseers trying to cram an itinerary to the brim may find Vilnius devoid of brilliant attractions, but that’s not the draw of this city. It’s a city like Ljubljana: a city to take your leisurely time and relax. Vilnius has a classic and small city feel, its streets filled with cozy bars and cafes. Add the slow paced lifestyle of the locals and it all underpins this relaxed vibe.
Lithuania in general is far off the usual European tourist trail. Located just east of Scandinavia, it creates a new, less traveled tourist track. A trip can start in Helsinki or St. Petersburg, swing down to Tallinn, Estonia, then Riga, Latvia and finally Vilnius, Lithuania. If you are flush with time, an eight hour bus ride will get you to Warsaw, Poland.
This itinerary will only cover Vilnius since it’s the star sight of Lithuania. I will say that Kaunas is not worth a visit unless you plan on heading out west to Klaipedia during the summer to enjoy the Baltic coastline. Of course these recommendations will be complete with bar recommendations as a trip to Vilnius isn’t complete with enjoying their microbrews.
Day 1
Gates of Dawn
A remnant of the city walls that still stands from the 1500s, restructured to include the adjacent church and….. yeah that’s about it. The Gate of Dawn is reportedly famous for its icon of the Virgin Mary, and so much so that Pope John Paul II once visited. There are also many large and beautiful cathedrals to visit for the religious man. For the rest of us, you’ll probably pass through the Gates of Dawn from the train station.
#Blessed
Vilnius Cathedral
Since Lithuania is so far north, there’s a lot of cool Pagan roots. Then Christianity rolled in, and the Vilnius Cathedral was built over the Pagan site. So now it’s a beautiful square located right in the middle of town that’s worth a picturesque selfie.
#Superblessed
Three Crosses
Legend has it that seven friars were beheaded on top of this hill hundreds of years ago. This story is mostly considered to be apocryphal, but I couldn’t help but think of the wonderful view of Vilnius these friars had in their last moments. The view from the Three Crosses is the best panoramic view of the town, and much superior than the view from the neighboring Gedimas Castle Tower.
Beaut’
Uzupis
This area of the town under the Soviet influence was actually the poorest area and housed the red-light district. Sadly, you can no longer pick up hookers in the area since it’s now the bohemian part of town. It’s so hip that the residents proclaimed the Uzupis to be an artist republic, complete with its own anthem, constitution and president. If that sounds odd enough, check out my favorite snippets from the constitution.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
If you need a break, this area is now lined with cozy coffee shops.
The Uzupis Angel was erected as the symbol of the Republic
Museum of Genocide (KGB Museum)
Swing to the west side of town to visit what I believe to be the most interesting museum in Vilnius. Only a four euro entrance fee, you get to view the former gymnasium turned Gestapo headquarters turned KGB headquarters turned museum. It primarily focuses on the Soviet occupation and the crimes committed on the Lithuanian population. The biggest interest is that the old interrogation, holding and execution cells are left in the current state so you can walk down and experience death alley.
Prisoners would have to stand there naked while the rest of the floor was filled with ice or ice water
Day 2 (Day trippin’)
While not required for a second day, there are a couple sites you can visit if you choose to linger in Vilnius longer.
Paneriai
If you’re up for some more dark tourism, Paneriai is a 15-minute train ride from the city. Outside of the town, you can find one of the death camps from Nazi Germany’s occupation of Lithuania. It’s estimated that up to 100,000 people, including Lithuanians, Jews, Poles and Soviet POWs, were killed here. Tragically, Paneriai became the first place where the Nazis started the mass murder of Jews.
One of the many mass grave sites in Paneriai
Trakai
This lovely reddish 15th century castle is another 30 minutes away from Paneriai and lays on a spit of land in the middle of a marsh. Its imposing view with the backdrop of the lake makes for some scenic views and a great walk around the castle.
If you wish to enter the castle, the entrance fee is seven euro which is okay. There are also many vendors around the castle that will offer half an hour scenic boat rides for a mere four euro and is probably a better deal than the entrance fee.
I may be getting a little tired of castles now
Drank
Snekutis
A local, grungey bar with cheap Lithuanian fare and loads of Lithuanian craft beers. A great place to try some of the Lithuanian “Zeppelins” (potato doughy dumplings with meat in the middle and drenched in their all-favorite sour cream), enjoy a beer and play some foosball.
I felt extremely fat after this
Bambalynė
A little underground bar with over 80 craft beers, mostly of the Lithuanian variety. Prices here are a little high, but well worth it for the warm cellar interior and the extensive beer selection.
99 bottles of beer on the wall…
Spunka
There’s two Spunka locations and both are great, cozy bars. The one in Uzupis is much smaller and better for a break during the day. The other is very popular at night, has a great beer selection as well as a robust menu. I’d add a picture, but I was a few beers deep and forgot to take one.
Peronas
Want something a little more vibrant? Peronas is located right next to the train tracks so you can watch the trains pass by throughout the evening. It’s part bar, part club, and all industrial ambiance. It turns into more of an alternative techno scene at night, but the outside seating area is a nice place to hang out if you can brave the cold Lithuanian weather.
Yes, that’s a statue of Tony Soprano. No, he’s not load bearing
Stray Observations
- Europeans like black leather jackets, but Lithuanians love black leather jackets. I’ve seen an entire family of four look like the most adorable and stylish biker gang.
- It’s a very stark reminder of how strong the Russian sphere of influence was when most locals assume you speak Russian.
- Unlike many of their neighbors, Lithuanians favors beer over vodka.
- All Vilnius bars are cozy, chill bars.
- Amber is a big deal here.
Found an amber nugget with a fossilized bug at one point. Dino-DNA perhaps?
Also wanted to point out the first McDonald’s that opened in Lithuania. This was the place to be back in 96′.
Until next time.