This teeny tiny country is overlooked by many on their journeys. Slovenia is often overshadowed by it's neighbors who have tempting offers like hiking in Austria, the rich history of Italy or the beaches of Croatia. Apart from being the Homeland of our first lady, Slovenia was such a worthwhile stop that I can't believe I almost skipped this lovely country.
Slovenia is in a pretty ideal location. If you're traveling between Salzburg, Vienna, Munich or Zagreb, Slovenia sits right in the middle as a convenient intersection.
And if you already have your eyes set out on these other countries, it’s definitely worth sparing a few days for Slovenia since it'll fit easily into many itineraries. If you''re just looking for the itinerary, you can find it at the end. While I would encourage recommend staying a few nights in each of their bigger attractions, you can see most of the highlights from one amazing place:
Ljubljana
Ljubljana nestled right on the river with dozens of small bridges and beautiful antique styled buildings. Its one of the smallest capitals in all of Europe with a population less than 300,000, 60,000 of whom are students. It’s a smaller city that's often overlooked by most travelers but it's taken my heart as one of my most favorite cities to visit next to Munich. But what I found really separates Ljubljana from other cities is its character.
It's a beautiful, relaxed city full of casual bars and cafes. Ljubljana is very big into coffee culture that reminds me of the Pacific Northwest. Chill little coffee shops with outdoor seating line the water front so you can just grab a seat in the sun and relax. Throw in a long history of delicious pastries like Gibancia, and you'll find that the afternoons will just breeze by.
If that gets too samey, Ljubljana also sports a youthful vibe due to the large student population. There’s a little hipster, grunge side to the city where graffiti plasters the city, with some graffiti being full works of art while others are an eyesore. This grungy, hangout atmosphere underbelly adds a great mix to the city's relaxed atmosphere during the day.
There's actually little to do from a tourism standpoint. Ljubjana castle, an intersection with three bridges, the Dragon Bridge and their old town won't take more than half a day to see. These lack of sights also means there are far less tourist here than in most European capitals. Sightseeing is not the draw of Ljubjana anyway. The draw is to relax with a coffee in hand during the day and enjoy some cold ones on the river or with the locals at a park.
What makes Ljubjana so important to this detour is its central location. Slovenia is so small that almost the entire country is within a three hour drive away. From Ljubjana you can first reach the most recognizable and popular destination:
Lake Bled
This is considered one of the biggest highlights of Slovenia and is a mere hour and a half drive from Ljubljana. A bus from Ljubljana's bus station runs for 6 euro and if you buy your return ticket at the same time, the return ticket goes for half price.
Catching the buses in Slovenia does take a little bit of planning. Tickets can be bought in advance at the bus station or online at www.ap-ljubljana.si. This is highly recommended as the buses to Bled fills up fast. If you show up for buses around noon, often you'll have to wait another hour for the next bus if you didn't reserve in advance. Even if you reserved your ticket in advance, it's still recommended to get to the bus station a bit early since it seems like they oversell tickets.
Once you get to Bled, you'll be rewarded with a stunningly clear lake with a beautiful cathedral plopped right in the middle. Bled Castle adds to the view as it sits right on the cliff overlooking the whole area. It costs 10 euro to go to the castle and unless you're there for the history, I would hold off if you're going for the view. Lookout points Ojstrica and Mala Osojnica are on the opposite side of the lake. They're a short and free hike that offer up some superior views.
Paddle-boards, kayaks and rowboats can be rented. Tours will even take you to the cathedral on the island or you can just swim there yourself. If you just walk to enjoy the nature in the area, you can hike the nearby trails, walk the hour and a half around the lake, stopping to swim as you please or rent a bike to breeze along the paved pathways.
The only drawback on Lake Bled is that it's pretty crowded during the high season. If you're itching to get more privacy, you can catch another bus, only 40 minutes and 4.10 euro to nearby Lake Bohinj. Lake Bohinj is a larger lake with more hiking trails and less tourists but is lacking a cathedral island. If you take the bus to the last stop, you can walk an hour and a half along the northern side of the lake to enjoy the view and stop for a swim. Less people lounge along this side so you can easily find a stretch of lake to yourself.
Lastly, you can catch 15 minute bus ride from Bled to Vintgar Gorge. Vintgar is a fast flowing river with clear blue water going through a gorge. Wooden walkways are elevated above the river so you can walk and see fish straight through the crystal clear water. It's a beautiful sightseeing that costs only 5 Euro for the entry fee. I would also recommend you arrive when the groge opens at 8 A.M. to avoid the crowds.
Piran
This will be a longer day trip from Ljubjana but is nothing too extreme. For 11 Euro, you can catch a two hour long bus ride out to Piran. Be sure to review the bus schedules carefully as there are some longer routes that will extend your trip out to three hours.
Most of Slovenia culture and cuisine is heavily influenced by the Romans (and later Venetians), Austrian and their Balkan neighbors. Once you reach Piran, you'll wonder if you're still in Slovenia or if you stepped into Italy. The Venetians ruled this area of Slovenia for a good five hundred years and you can definitely see and hear it. Apart from the visual reminder of Italy, Italian is actually the second official language of the area. Throw in some amazing gelato, pasta and Roman ruins to make this a unique little peninsula town.
If you’re looking to stay the night in some nicer accommodations, neighboring Portoroz is full of resorts and casinos. There’s little else there than hospitality and some rocky beach access, but if that’s your thing, it’s a quick stop from Piran.
Postojna Caves and Castle
I didn't actually go here but I felt to give it a mention so you can decide if it's worth going, especially since Ljubjana is plastered with advertisements about this place. A visit to the caves will go for 25 Euro (not including transportation) and I've heard from multiple visitors that they didn't think it to be worth the money or the time.
“Its like I paid 25 euro for air conditioning.” –Fellow backpacker talking about the Postonja Caves
The castle is a cool site but not even near the cave. It's generally not considered worth going to Postojna just for the castle. If a large cave and a castle is your deal, it might be well worth trip. I did pass through Postonja and didn't find it too interesting just to see the town. If you're wavering or on a tight budget, these sights can be skipped.
Sample Itinerary
Day 1: Reach Ljubljana during the day. Walk around the old town and relax at some cafes and bars.
Day 2: Leave early to Vintgar Gorge and relax by Lake Bled during the day. Return to Ljubljana for the evening and visit the graffiti wall if you’d like a few drinks.
Day 3: Full day trip to Piran.
Day 4: Take a river boat ride, relax around town and take a night train out of town. Or if you’re in a rush you can leave during the day. OPTIONAL: Day trip to Postonja Caves and Castle and then catch a night train out of town.
That's the whole itinerary for Slovenia! Less than four days to squeeze in the middle of your European vacation.
Helpful Tips
- Try the regional dish, Bureka, a pastry stuffed with meats is a quick and cheap eat that should cost 2 euro.
- While Slovenia has an eclectic mix of dishes that are influenced by their neighbors, eating out is pricer than one would expect.
- Italian influence means their gelato is top shelf. Don't miss out on this when visiting Piran or Ljubljana.
- Wine has been historically a big industry in Slovenia. A glass of cheap wine in a local restaurant or bar should cost you no more than 1.50 euro.
- The Slovenian language shares many roots with their nearby neighbors. The word prosim (pronunced pro-seem) for please, like in the Czech Republic, can also be used liberally here when you're in doubt.
Until next time.